Firstly, I got an opportunity recently to help plant 100 native trees on a friend’s farm as part of his woodland rejuvenation plans. We planted birch, alder, hazel, oak and guilder rose saplings. It felt like good work to be helping to recreate a new wildlife habitat in the local area. Well done Seamus!

Secondly, just a wee reminder that we are still taking bookings for our leisure walking and sightseeing summer tours to Slovakia this June, July and August. In fact, we are now offering a 10% discount for all bookings made before May 31st. More info

Now for the story. Last August I decided to take a walk along the ancient pilgrimage path that leads to the shores of Lough Derg. I was in search of an ancient monument called Saint Daveoc’s Chair. St. Daveoc was an early Christian anchorite who sought out this remote and wild area, to be closer to nature and God. Although the pilgrimage island is now famously known as Saint Patrick’s Purgatory, it was this saintly hermit who is traditionally associated with Lough Derg. Even today, this area exudes a sense of remote wildness. In the 6th century, it was the wilderness domain of wolves, wild boar and wild tribal peoples!

I took a booklet along with me about Lough Derg’s ancient pilgrimage path, kindly gifted to me by local woman, Mary Leonard. I found St Daveoc’s Chair in the hollow of a hill, cloaked by plantation forestry. My initial exhilaration at finding this ancient sacred site, soon turned to deep unease and anger. Coillte workers had planted right upon the site, even though there was very little soil at the top of the hill. What were they thinking at the time? Some of the trees had predictably crashed down over the Chair. A forestry worker had returned recently to wrap a strip of red and white plastic around the sight, as if to section off the scene of a crime.

I reflected over the experience for a week and then decided to call a friend who works for Coillte. I asked him to talk with his managers and tell them that I would go to the local and national press if this sacred site wasn’t restored and fallen trees removed. I said I would give them 6 months, I actually gave them 9.

Lo and behold, I returned to Saint Daveoc’s Chair last Friday to find that Coillte had removed the plantation and did not replant the hill site with conifer saplings. The atmosphere had completely transformed up at the Chair. I sat in cross-legged position with my hazel walking stick by my side, and gazed across Lough Derg to the Basilica on Station Island. To the south I could make out part of the ancient medieval pilgrimage path that winds over moorland from Templecairn. It was a beautiful sight on a bright, fresh April afternoon.

In the same way that many Irish people nowadays travel to Spain to do the Camino De Santiago walk, countless people from across Europe (including nobility), converged on this remote corner of Donegal during the Medieval period, fasting and praying as they walked. It was hard to imagine the effort that took. Even today it’s quite a drive out to Lough Derg by car.

As I sat next to the Chair, taking in the newly restored panoramic view, I recalled stories of the enlightened Buddhist hermits that lived lives of mediation and reflection in the remoter reaches of the Himalayas. Surely Daveoc was on a similar quest. Of course nobody is an island and local people from the Pettigo area must have brought him food and clothes offerings. Tradition has it that when Daveoc died, locals rowed his body out on a dugout canoe and buried him on Saints Island. His tomb probably became the centre of a localised pilgrimage, centuries before Saint Patrick was ever connected to Lough Derg.

Not far from St. Daveoc’s Chair, I found St. Brigid’s Chair, right on the lake shore of Lough Derg. Pilgrim’s would sit on this natural stone seat, with their palms brought together in prayer, and facing Station Island. Coillte workers continued to regain my respect when I noticed a recently cleared plantation of spruce trees – close to St. Brigid’s Chair. The area had been replanted with young oak trees in tall plastic green tubes, to protect them from browsing red deer. This seemed a very fitting act as Brigid’s religious foundation was centred in Kildare – Cill Dara (The Church of the Oak Trees).

The final part of my walk brought me to a holy well dedicated to St. Brigid. It was draped in prayer cloths and other personal offerings left by modern pilgrims. A big old willow trees with a wonderful coat of moss watched over this special place. I bathed a sore right eye in its clear waters. It wasn’t sore the next morning. There was a good feeling of natural harmony and balance on this ancient pilgrimage path; acknowledged through the presence of sacred sites dedicated to both male and female spiritual masters. I highly recommend doing this walk sometime with friends or by yourself.

The returning to wonder continues…..

We are currently getting cool new posters and fliers printed up for distribution and we really appreciate anybody who can help us spread the good word among family, friends and work colleagues. You can read all about our tours by clicking ‘Slovakia Summer Tours’ on the navigation bar of our newly revamped website or simply drop me an email enquiry. http://journeyinwonder.com/tours/

Slovakia is a land of ancient castles, awe inspiring scenery, stunning walks, and warm sunny summers. Lonely Planet (the largest travel guide publishers in the world) has chosen Slovakia as one of the best tourist destinations for 2013. Click to read article. http://www.slovakia.travel/entitaview.aspx?l=2&llt=3&idp=105915

It has been a dream of both Jana and I to organise small-scale experience tours for quite some time now so it feels a little surreal to think we’re now actually giving it our best shot. Jana is the event organiser of the partnership and a passionate food guide while I love organising the walking and tour guiding side of things so we were always going to incorporate this popular activity into any relaxed and fun tour itinerary. I feel that leisure walking is a great way to connect people with place and to experience the hidden gems that mainstream tourism sadly often overlooks or bypasses. We consciously made the decision to keep our tour groups to a maximum of 14 people so that we can stay at intimate scale guesthouses and hotels, get off the beaten track more, and socialise together as a group in the evenings.

Well that’s the party political broadcast on behalf of our Summer Tours over! Next week I hope to be back with a new walking in wonder blog.

Until then, keep on walking and keep on talking!

So it was on a recent walk in the Laghey area of South Donegal. On this particular morning, I decided to divert my two feet from a local road into uncultivated fields owned by my uncle. The hillside land had reverted back to a semi-wild state of overgrown bushes, trees and brambles; providing ample cover for animals, insects and bird life. Even the air smelt wild.

The mucky ground sucked slightly at my boots, compelling me to thread with increased awareness. While slowly choosing my next footstep, I noticed a large frog on the ground ahead of me and was mightily grateful for not having stepped on it with my big boots! Squatting down to get a closer look, I marvelled at the black commando-like camouflage streaks on either side of its brownish green head and how its whole body seemed to contract and expand with each breath taken.

We parted company on good terms and I spied a gap entrance which lead to an upper field. I then watched as a smallish bird of prey took off from the top branch of a tall ivy-clad hedgerow ash tree, its wings slicing the air with silent precision. This upper field was full of green and rusty brown knee-high rushes, but with spaces in between to navigate a way through. Suddenly I was startled by a cock pheasant, which rose up from its hiding spot in a noisy burst of flapping energy. I had just moments to catch his spectacular colouring and flamboyant tail feathers, which reflected an exotic metallic sheen in the bright morning light.

I reached a third gap closer to the hill summit, and now wished I had brought my hazel walking staff as a tangled maze of barbed brambles lay in my way. A more carefully plotted advance was required; carefully lifting my legs theatrically above the brambles and stepping on them to make a temporary, springy foot space. The rushes on this field were matted down in places and I wondered did badgers, deer or the wind cause it. I soon got my answer. From the corner of my eye I noticed a large shape suddenly stirring from beneath a gorse bush, where it had been obviously sun bathing. It was a large stag deer with a magnificent full set of antlers. My heart missed a beat as I stood fixed to the spot. I caught his eye or he caught mine as he trotted right past me before springing into a woodland grove and out of sight. It was an unforgettable moment.

I felt like I had walked into a Celtic Dreamtime on that blue sky morning, and scarcely a mile from my own cottage in Trummon. I slowly continued into a shaded grove of ancient whitethorn trees, draped in deep green ivy. Later that evening, I sought out the words of that great American sage and lifelong walker, Henry David Thoreau. He believed there was a subtle magnetism in Nature, which if we yield to it, can make us whole again and direct us on the right path.

“I enter a swamp as a sacred place, – a sanctum sanctorum. There is the strength, the marrow, of Nature. The wildwood covers the virgin mould, – and the same soil is good for men and for trees. A man’s health requires as many acres of meadow to his prospect as his farm does loads of muck.”

The returning to wonder continues….

It can be difficult to find any motivation after a busy day; much easier to switch on the TV after dinner and tune out. But this is the time of year when we can most benefit from a good walk. Walking can slow down our notions of time to a more instinctively acceptable pace and help provide precious space and time for ourselves to think more clearly.

The night has its own wonders to share on a walk in the countryside; a full moon’s light sparkling on the surface of a calm lake; rain shower clouds parting like stage curtains to reveal a sky teeming with stars; the delight of observing the split-second flash and tracer of a shooting star; the elemental rasping bark of a fox.

The good news is that spring is just around the corner. Until then, I guarantee that you will feel more refreshed after making the effort to go on a late evening walk. It’s actually safer to go out in complete darkness, than during the twilight hour, with a high visibility vest on, as cars and other vehicles can see you much more clearly. Just remember to wrap up in a warm under-layer, waterproofs and a wooly hat and venture forth with a sure step!

On the subject of funds and the occasional lack of them (call it an occupational hazard!), I would like to thank my friends at B&B Ireland for providing me with writing work over the past year and more. It has been a real dream gig for me to travel the length and breadth of Ireland on assignments, meeting interesting characters and wonderful B&B hosts (many who I’ve remained in contact with), and promoting walks and outdoor activities from Antrim to Waterford. I was as merrily occupied as one of Santa’s elves before Christmas, creating blogs for B&Bs Ireland new ‘Gathering’ themed website and feel free to check some of them out at http://thegathering.bandbireland.com

To celebrate `The Gathering Ireland 2013` tourism initiative, B&B Ireland have launched a major competition on Facebook. The prize is based on 2 adults and includes 6 nights B&B plus 7 days car hire and entry to the Guinness Storehouse, Fota Wildlife Park, Waterford House of Crystal, 2 DublinPasses and a trip on the Dublin Viking Splash Tour.

To enter, just upload your own ‘Gathering’ themed photo on Facebook. If you are not very tech-minded like me, then get a family member to help you! The closing date is the 21^st March 2013. This is the link to enter on Facebook and the best of luck. I know I’m giving it a shot! http://promoshq.wildfireapp.com/website/6/contests/309412 The winner will be announced on the 6th April.

Staying in B&B accomodation helps put money directly into local economies, in the same way as doing some extra shopping at a country/farmers market does or buying goods and services at a local level. Next week I would like to share a few thoughts on the benefits of walking during the cold dark evenings of winter; blog readers from the Southern Hemisphere can have next Sunday’s reading time off!!

Until then, keep on walking and talking.

Kathleen and Brendan’s response was inspiring. They expressed gratitude that their family was safe and well and appreciation for the support of family, friends and their local community. I felt compelled to do something to support them. They had constructed an ecologically sensitive house using natural building materials. With no evolved government policy on such builds, insurance cover wasn’t even an issue.

I chose to organise a fundraising walk as it felt like the right event.
With their consent, I prepared a press release and emailed it to the Donegal Times and Donegal Post. The Donegal Post forwarded it on to sister papers around the county. Ocean FM picked up on the press release and their broadcasters announced it on the days leading up to the walk.

Last Sunday began wet and blustery but as I drove down to Murvagh, the squally showers cleared. I hoped for 20 people to turn up and mindful of how money is tight for many people at the moment, advertised a suggested donation of 5 Euro per person. I was delighted to see at least 20 people gathered and waiting for the walk at Murvagh carpark. There were neighbours, family, the new Mayor of Laghey, people from the local community and Donegal Town, and members of the Rossnowlagh, Mountcharles and Donegal Town weekly walking groups. Councillor Jim Lynch had driven over from Letterkenny while Joe and Kathleen Mc Daid drove the whole way down from Clonmany.

People began to quietly hand me 5, 10 and 20 Euro notes. People had money to give from friends who couldn’t make the walk but wanted to contribute. There was kindness in peoples eyes; concern in their voices. Just as we were about to start, more cars arrived in a steady procession. Soon, more notes were placed in my hand. The whole scene almost moved me to tears. Very few of the people who had turned up to support the walk knew Brendan or Kathleen personally but empathized with what happened and felt compelled to contribute.

After the event, I thought about a passage I had read from a book by my friend Phil Cousineau, ‘The Oldest Story in the World’. He wrote of how a Native American friend described how ‘spirit moved’ during a ceremonial event. I felt the same thing happening last Sunday afternoon at Murvagh, though peoples support and our subsequent walk.

I gave a short talk in a woodland clearing about the special trees, animals, birds and insects which make Murvagh Forest Nature Reserve their home, before we returned to the carpark via the beach. It was a wonderful sight to look back and see almost 60 people walking in unison along Murvagh’s wide, sandy strand under the soft, pale light of a clement January afternoon.

The walk raised 551 Euro with donations still being left in to the Donegal Family Resource Centre. The Farren family texted me during the week to express their gratitude for everyone’s generous contribution and wrote, “it is truly beautiful experiencing the compassion and love that has come from our misfortune. A caring community is so important to the well-being of us all.”

I will sign off with a few words that Kathleen O’ Hara Farren wrote on Facebook shortly after their house fire, and which I paraphrased last Sunday afternoon before our walk.

Nothing is really mine
It’s not about ‘me’
Guardians are we
Your health is your wealth

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Your support is needed

Please donate to Katheen, Brendan and family via PayPal ( https://www.paypal.com/ie/webapps/mpp/send ) by enterting Kathleen’s email ( oharafarren@gmail.com ) and paying online. Or email Kathleen for bank account info. 

Highlights of the year that was included a B&B Ireland travel assignment with Jana around Connemara and Galway City in March; launching the Green Exercise Walking Guide with the Donegal Family Resource Centre in June; helping Jana organise our 7 day Journey in Wonder Slovakia tour in August; and having 150 children and adults people turn up for the Halloween Storytelling Ghost Tour out at Harvey’s Point in late October! A final highlight of the year is knowing there are now 4 weekly walking groups established in South Donegal, offering fresh air, companionship and healthy exercise along our many scenic beaches and byways.

Current plans for 2013 include organising more Journey in Wonder tours round Ireland and Central Europe next summer; a Green Exercise walking festival next autumn; a tree planting initiative in the springtime; and complete two writing projects.

2012 Shift
There is no doubt in my mind that 2012 heralded a new shift in awareness and personal empowerment for millions of people around the world; call it an intuitive response by the human race to the huge economic, environmental and social crises that we now face on a global scale.

Slieve Beagh, Co. Fermanagh at dawn

2013 will be the year to spend less of our energy on mindless distractions, worries and fears and more time focusing on personal goals, talents, and activities, for the benefit and enjoyment of ourselves and others.

Walking as well as talking, dancing, cycling, singing, laughing, meditating and swimming are some of the ways we can help boost our energy levels.

I’d like to sign off with a short poem and wish for 2013.

Let’s All

Let’s all…
Walk taller
See further
Live kinder
Share wider
Love deeper
Choose wiser
Feel lighter
Cry freer
Smile brighter
Hear clearer
Value our health
Redefine our wealth
Leave space for nature
Believe in the creator
Connect.

I had broke out as a dastardly grave-digger with as much moral scruples as a Wall Street investment banker. We set off through the gloom of a damp November night in search off an ancient highway man’s buried treasure. Our first stop was the local Famine Pot where I recounted tales of Banshees and feared witches from the Bluestack Mountain valleys. Harvey’s Point had laid on hot soup for everyone, to fortify our courage.

We set off once again in the direction of Lough Eske Castle along a dark forest path. There were no special effects and yet the imagination of the kids took over and conjured up all sorts of apparitions and spooks lurking in the woods. A few good friends had agreed to emerge from the woods and give us all a scare which worked a treat. There were more ghost stories in Lough Eske Castle and by the shores of Lough Eske before we returned to the warmth and light of Harvey’s Point once again. We then settled in for a night of ghost stories with an international standard and prizes again sponsored by Harvey’s Point.

There’s something strangely therapeutic about celebrating the dark, the macabre and the unknown at Halloween, especially when it draws people together. There is also a certain playful freedom in putting on a mask or fancy dress and taking a break from maintaining our image and the everyday expectations of society.
That’s why it’s so important for us to celebrate festivals and mark special occasions together. Walking, whether in a parade, protest march, somber procession, Easter Egg hunt, or even a ghost storytelling walk, seems to lend itself naturally to such events. Participating and celebrating in calendar celebrations and festivals help us mark the passing year and take us out of a seemingly endless cycle of daily routine, responsibilities and concerns.

It’s true that consumerism has wrapped itself around Halloween, as it is has with many of our major festivals – but there is still magic to be found and a sense of wonder to be shared. The returning to wonder continues….

We are now taking bookings for our 7 day summer tour to Slovakia and still have a few places left for our Christmas Markets Tour to Bratislava and Vienna in early December.

We also hope to organise our first 7 day tour of Ireland next August. It is now possible to book our tour through our website or via the postal address provided, while we can also provide information on booking flights and tour dates through our dedicated email address and contact number.

Email: journeyinwonder@gmail.com | Tel. +353 (0) 87 9213200

Journey in Wonder Tours seems to have taken on a life of its own since we organised our first summer tour last August and it’s been an exciting time for both Jana and myself. We are very grateful for all the support, feedback and encouragement we received from everyone who toured with us last August over in Slovakia. We weren’t sure how it would be received but think it’s safe to say that everyone had a wonderful time, including ourselves. A big thank you to you all!

It has been a dream of both Jana and I to organise small-scale experience tours for quite some time now so it feels a little surreal to think we’re now actually doing it. We both love travelling and showing people around our respective countries. Jana has a keen interest in event organisation while my background is in promoting healthy walks and so I guess we were always going to incorporate this popular activity into any relaxed and fun tour itinerary. I feel that leisure walking is a great way to connect people with place and to experience the hidden gems that mainstream tourism sadly often overlooks or bypasses. We consciously made the decision to keep our tour groups to around 12 people so that we can continue to stay at more intimate scale guesthouses, get off the beaten track more and socialise together as a group in the evenings.

I couldn’t end this blog and not mention a very special friend, Ruairí Mc Kiernan, who I and many others hope will someday run for president of Ireland! Ruairí took it upon himself, in the midst of all his youth, human rights and community advocacy work, to help revamp our website and for this I send him a mega thank you.

Now for those of you who think I’ve hung up the walking boots and pen, I will be back from next week for an Autumn/Winter series of ‘Walking in Wonder’ blogs. In the meantime, feel free to browse the revamped website and we would love to receive your feedback and perhaps have you travel with us soon.

The Journey in Wonder continues….

Keith

P.S – I’m on Facebook here: 
https://www.facebook.com/keith.corcoran.927

_______________________________

Tour pages
- Bratislava and Vienna Christmas Markets Tour: Dec. 7-10 2012
- Slovakia Summer Tours 2013
- Essential Travel information

It was our wish in the planning stage to keep the tour to a small number so that we could stay at more intimate scale guesthouses, get off the beaten track more. and dine together as a group in the evenings. It seemed to work well. We met everyone at Bratislava Airport on Monday morning the 20th August and our dedicated bus driver then took everyone back to our hotel, near the historic quarter, for some siesta time. We later arranged an historic walking experience of Bratislava’s Old Town followed by dinner in an outdoor courtyard.

The next morning we all set off for the stunning national parks region of Slovakia, just a 3 hour drive to the north. Slovakia is a land of ancient castles, awe inspiring scenery, stunning walks, and warm sunny summers.

We were on our way to the spectacular Strecno Valley, to do a traditional raft trip down a picturesque 5km stretch of the river Vah. Our two young guides kept us well entertained as we meandered along at a leisurely pace. I’m sure Huckleberry Finn would have been proud of us. After lunch it was time to walk up to Strecno Castle. The imposing fortress once guarded one of the most famous trade routes in Europe; The Amber Road; which stretched from the Black Sea to the Adriatic.

The next day we all took a cable car ride up for a ridge walk to a mountain. We were rewarded with breathtaking views and could even make out the wee village we were staying in.That night our guests went unexpectedly wild and abandoned all sense for their respective ages. We had organised a live band at the restaurant we booked and arranged a complimentary glass of Medovina (a local honey liquor) after our meal. The restaurant owners followed with another complimentary round. Whatever was in the Medovina seemed to have an invigorating effect on everyone. Less than half an hour later, most of our group were doing the ‘Conga’ around the restaurant floor or up dancing with the musicians on stage. We were left with no option but to join them!

On Thursday, we left Terchova and made our way to the High Tatras. The sun continued to blaze in the sky as we made a stop off at the beautifully preserved world heritage protected village of Vlkolinec. We arrived at the alpine style village of Tatranska Lomnica in the early evening and checked into a spacious family run hotel. The High Tatra Mountains are among the highest in Central Europe and dominated the northern skyline from our hotel windows.

Friday was our showcase walking day as we had organised two short routes. The first 4km walk brought us on a short off-road hike to a series of magical waterfalls, fed by melting snows high in the mountains. The second walk took us for a leisurely 2km stroll around a glacial lake with magnificent views of the High Tatras. We had a sing-song after dinner on our final evening in Tatranska Lomnica and the hotel staff waved us off the next morning….I hope it wasn’t out of relief.

The final day of our tour took us to the Walt Disney style Bojnice Castle. We were brought on an enchanting tour around this fairytale fortress, which has served as an authentic set for a number of movies. Our final activity was a trip to Bojnice’s famous Spa complex to relax in the sauna and heated pools.

We were so enthused by the feedback from our first ever Journey in Wonder tour that Jana and I have decided to run the same 6 day summer tour again in 2013. In fact, we’re organising one a month from May to August so please help us spread the word and let me know if you’d like some more booking info. You can contact me on journeyinwonder@gmail.com

We are also organising a shorter 3 day tour in early December of this year. This trip will take in the Christmas markets in Bratislava and Vienna plus an atmospheric return to Bojnice Castle.

The Journey in Wonder continues….

It was then time for myself to say a few words. It was easy to speak from the heart that night as I felt among friends and supporters who had come to personally value the Green Exercise Walks. I spoke of how the constant support for the weekly walks in Donegal and Pettigo, no mater what the weather, and the positive feedback and encouragement I received, had inspired me to put together the Green Exercise Walking Guide as an example and blueprint for other Green Exercise Walking Groups to get established throughout Ireland and perhaps the World. As you can see by now, I spoke more than a few words!

There were also time for a few funny stories as to how I nearly got the directions mixed up for the first featured walk in the guide and how I paid my good friend and Living Earth legend, Judith Hoad, in bags of turf for the excellent editing job she did on the guide.

A surprise presentation was then made to one of our most dedicated walkers, Brid Boyle. Christina and Eileen Irwin then gave a fun demonstration of ´Dance Walking´before the interval. The Donegal Family Resource had organised food and refreshments before my good neighbours Brian Curristin, Bernie Quinn and Tim Mc Grory, as Country Traditions, had everyone out on the floor dancing until midnight.

For those of you who were unable to make the launch but would like to order a copy of your Green Exercise Walking Guide, I will be more than happy to organise that over the next two weeks before I embark on another project

The guide is retailing for €5 and all proceeds go back into the Green Exercise walks. You can send a cheque or postal order for €7.50 to me to cover postage and packaging at;

Keith Corcoran
Trummon
Laghey
Co Donegal

For those of you living around Donegal, I will be signing copies of the new guide at the Donegal Castle Food and Craft Market from 10am to 4pm this Saturday 14th July and also leading a short guided historical walk of Donegal Town at 1pm.

Well, thats all for now. Wishing you all the opportunity for healthy walks in nature over the summer months.

Keith

With the evenings now getting longer, it’s a great time of year to explore the countryside and re-connect with the natural world again. Try and breathe deeply as you walk and let your lungs fill with fresh air. Listen to the sounds around you; slow down as you walk and observe the wildflowers, birds, insects, farmers and gardeners at work. Read the changing sky and cloud patterns. Allow yourself to appreciate how good it feels to be moving along in a steady rhythmic motion, courtesy of you!

I recently had the good fortune to spend a week holidaying and touring around Gran Canaria with Jana. We hired a car, which was the perfect way to see the island. I was taking aback by the huge diversity of landscapes on Gran Canaria. Within an hour’s driving, we passed from coastal beach resorts to dry arid dessert peppered with cactus, to high alpine forests and peaks over 1,500 metres high, where snow occasionally falls in the winter months.

Gran Canaria is shrouded in mystery. Some believe the island to be the blissful paradise that the Greeks referred to as Atlantis and the Celts referred to as Hy-Brasil. Whatever about these myths, modern holiday makers flock to Gran Canaria in search of realisable ancestral dreams such as an abundance of sun, food, drink and entertainment.

Neighbour's Cave

Jana booked us into an eco cave for two nights, high up the Barranco de Guayadeque, an awe inspiring valley – surrounded on three sides by towering mountains. The vegetation was diverse and lush; cacti, palm trees, poppies and Canary Pines grew side by side. In pre-historic times, the original inhabitants, known as the Canarios, lived in caves and simple stone shelters along the walls of the valley. They buried their ancestors in inaccessible caves in the higher reaches of the valley, where they also performed sacred rituals. We began our journey in bright sunshine but mist shrouded the upper reaches of the valley and swirled down the steep slopes as twilight approached.

View from front door

I never stayed in a cave before, albeit a modern cave dwelling, furnished with mod cons. There was something deeply primal about sleeping within the folds of a mountain. I felt compelled to go for a night-time walk, just as the high cloud was clearing to reveal windows of sky, teeming with bright stars. I followed a path up the mountain and felt cool, misty air upon my face. I marvelled to think of the ancient tribes who lived on Gran Canaria, a volcanic speck, in the vast blueness of the Atlantic Ocean, and what their lives were like. At that moment, the wings of a nocturnal bird of prey sliced the air above my head before landing on a tree further down the valley. A fast moving, haunting echo, bounced around the high valley walls. It was the collective echo of barking dogs further down the valley, transformed into an otherworldly sound like wind blowing through a tunnel. I could barely trace the road we travelled along, which abruptly stopped at the foot of a huge barrier of mountain.

For a moment, my spirit longed to climb up to the highest ridge of that immense mountain, to light a fire and to camp a night; to gaze up at the  heavens – with a similar tapestry of celestial stars to back home; to breathe in the fresh air of a sister ocean; to fall asleep between earth and sky. The warm comfort and company of the cave also called and was where I gladly made my way safely back to, in that atmospheric valley of the ancestors. Gran Canaria was a pleasant surprise and somewhere I’m glad we visited. Until next time, keep on walking and talking!

Fisrtly, I have some more good news to share this week. Through the energy and drive of Kathleen Mc Hugh at the Donegal Town Family Resource Centre, we have secured enough funding to proceed with producing a national Green Exercise Walking Guide Booklet. The booklet will feature 10 walks in the South Donegal area, the story of the Green Exercise Walking Group and a resource guide for groups wishing to set similar walking groups throughout the country. Launch date is the end of May and I will keep everyone posted in future blogs.

For this week’s blog I would like to share a memorable day I spent over in Galway City, covering the Saint Patrick’s Day Parade, for my friends at B&B Ireland. I was delighted that Jana was able to join me as we are both big fans of Galway. For me it is the historic city’s setting. There is a feeling of frontier wildness about the city that shapes the people and vibrant culture of the place. The only other part of the world I have sensed this is when I visited Vancouver Island and spent a few days in the coastal capital, Victoria.

The vast waters of Lough Corrib and the mountains of Connemara stretch to the north, Galway Bay expands to the south, while the River Corrib races through the city like its giddy, irresistible pulse.

We arrived at our B&B predictable late for the main parade and wishing to have a few drinks later, decided to walk or rather quick march back into town. Joan, our host, was having none of it. “We couldn’t have you late for the parade my dear, now hold on to I get my husband and we will drop you in.” They knew all the back roads into the city centre and even gave us directions on the best location to view the parade from. Where would you get it.

We joined the crowds of spectators that lined the streets, just in time to see a brass band march slowly by, followed by a man with a wide brimmed hat, driving an old Ford tractor. Everyone was in a festive mood, greatly enhanced by the unexpectedly warm spring sunshine. One of the most popular entrants in the parade was a drama group who took a satirical approach to the banking and debt crisis in Ireland. Young men and women, painted and dressed like zombies, and wearing placards around their necks, dragged their feet through the crowds with outstretched arms groaning, “I want your money, give me some money!”. Saint Patrick, the ancient protector of Ireland, then appeared to cheers and applause and proceeded to chase the zombie bankers up the street with his crozier! This was using the medium of walking to great political effect.

We decided to take a walk down to the Quay after the parade had finished and ambled along the cobble stones through the 16th century Spanish Arch, which gives a clue to the city’s historic trade connections with Spain. It is also Galway is without doubt the most walking friendly city in all of Ireland, with a laid back country town – seaside feeling, which helps makes it so special. There are numerous narrow pedestrian streets to explore at a relaxed pace and just a few minutes walk across the bridge at Quay Street, you can enjoy a beautiful seaside walk around by the Claddagh, where swans glide past small sailing boats and the shrill cries of seagulls can be heard overhead. This is a popular weekend spot for local Galwegians and connects up with the Salthill Promenade, which offers sweeping views of Galway Bay and across to the slate blue hills of County Clare. Our B&B host, Joan, informed us that she regularly walks this route with friends and shared with us the local tradition of kicking the wall at the end of the promenade before turning on your heel! The next time you go to Galway, you have to make it your mission.

We made our way back into the city via the very pleasant Corrib Bank Walk and stopped by a salmon weir to gaze across at the patina green dome of Galway Cathedral against a soft evening sky. The final stop of our walking tour was Eyre Square where brightly coloured flags, representing the fourteen ancient tribes (families) of Galway, fluttered in a freshening sea breeze. It was good to be back in Galway and the walking in wonder continues….

On Monday 27th February, I drove up over the high moor lands and down into the quiet wee border town of Pettigo to lead the first Green Exercise Walking Group outside of Donegal Town. Martina at the Pettigo Family Resource Centre had rang me in January and asked me would I bring the ‘walking talking bus model’ to the local community. I had gladly accepted the opportunity. I was fortunate to have the support of Sandra Johnston who started out walking with the group in Donegal. I was naturally apprehensive on the first morning but my spirits were soon raised when 11 people arrived for the 10am walk. We enjoyed a lovely local ramble along back roads through the emerald green drumlin hills around Pettigo and got to meet all the participants over a refreshing cup of tea and biscuit back at the community hall.

I soon realised that everyone understand the benefits of the walk on that first morning and even came up with a name, ‘The Walkie Talkie Group’!

The following Monday morning, 18 people were waiting to board our bus and we enjoyed a wonderful walk through Murvagh Forest and along the beach front. The weather was with us and a large dark shower cloud retreated across the bay and left way for some welcome early spring sunshine. Yesterday, we had 18 people once again for the bus and this time drove up to a hill country townland called Bushel to start our walk.

It felt like walking back through time along the narrow tarmac roads, which seemed to twist and turn with the contours of the landscape on a trail that may well have started off as a shepherds path, centuries ago. Sheltered green fields, scattered woodlands and white cottages clung to a backdrop of wild mountain heights, all dark and light brown speckled shades. Far below us to the south stretched the expansive waters of Lower Lough Erne, temporarily lit up by a sun beam.

Every field seemed occupied by a fairy thorn bush or a flock of noisy bleating sheep expecting or wishing for passing walkers to feed them. One man on the walk called Tommy spoke of how he left the townland we passed through in his youth to live and work in Middlesborough. I could scarcely imagine two more different worlds that this picturesque but remote rural mountain community in Donegal and the populated city of Middlesborough in England’s industrial North East. As we walked back down the mountain boreens towards Pettigo, I had a great chat with a woman called Bridie who told me that she had been performing a 3 day pilgrimage to Lough Derg every year since she was 15 years old and had completed 40. She spoke of the great feeling of camaraderie among pilgrims who watched out for one another during the fasts, stations and all night vigil and the sense of inner peace and well being that she felt after each retreat.

After just 3 weeks I am quietly confident that the Pettigo walk is here to stay and Sandra Johnston will take over leading the walk after Easter. Last Friday week the Green Exercise walking initiative came in for some praise, live on RTE Radio 1, during the John Murray Show.

Listen (mention at the end around 50 mins in)
http://www.rte.ie/radio/radioplayer/rteradioweb.html#!rii=9%3A3215824%3A4502%3A02-03-2012%3A

A special thanks to Susan Quirke for the kind promotion! I hope to begin work on a booklet in April in conjunction with the Family Resource Centres and walkers to spread the good word through the length and breadth of Ireland and beyond. The waking in wonder continues….

I recently had the good fortune of spending a few weeks with wonderful hosts, in the beautiful central European country of Slovakia. There are many things I have come to love about Slovakia and one of them is their respect for trees. With a population and land size similar to that of Ireland, they have managed to hold onto over 40% of their native forest cover. Some of these great natural refuges in the north of Slovakia are home to some of Europe’s last wild populations of boar, brown bear, wolves, bison and lynx.

To walk amongst their mature oak forests is to imagine walking through many parts of Ireland as recently as the early 17^th Century. It is said that at one time, a red squirrel could travel by treetop to treetop from the lush, mossy oak woods around Cong in County Galway across south Mayo and Roscommon, to the banks of the mighty Shannon river. I dream that Ireland will once again see mighty oak forests grow skywards in her landscape as a symbol of a rekindled understanding of how important large native forests are to bio-diversity and to help offset our contribution to global warming and climate change.

I started out my walk from Dubravka, a low rise suburb in the west of the capital city,Bratislava. It was a little surreal to begin my walk navigating through a modern forest of medium rise flats of between five and twelve stories high. These medium density suburban developments ensured the surrounding hillsides remained largely wild and forested. The flats were painted a random and refreshing kaleidoscope of pastel beiges, oranges, yellows, pinks and blues. The colours appeared with the Velvet Revolution of 1989 and the collapse of the Iron Curtain after decades of oppressive Communist rule.

My guide was my girlfriend’s mother, Verona Wallnerova, a highly knowledgeable, articulate and enthusiastic walker. We soon left the rush and noise of a main traffic artery in our wake and ascended a narrow concrete laneway, past a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The forest ahead began to take on its true grand scale as our feet rustled through dried, bright brown leaves from last autumn. A trail meandered up the hillside and the wooded landscape soon enveloped us. The slumbering oak forest had its own stark beauty and symbolic wisdom to offer us. Trees are deeply connected to the changing seasons, as they are the earth.

I was curious to know why Slovakia has managed to hold onto so many of its forests and a refined respect for trees. It seemed that the 18^th century Austro-Hungarian Empress, Maria Theresa, was greatly influential in protecting Slovakia’s medieval forests as well as introducing many important social reforms. She encouraged regulations that if a tree was to be cut, two should be planted in its place.

My mind settled in the rhythm of my footsteps and in the presence of such regal, tall oaks. My guide book informed me that Celtic tribes had established a flourishing empire along the banks of the River Danube, in the area of modern Brataislava and Dubrovka, during the early Iron Age. This was to be a golden age, before Celtic tribes began their great migration on foot, pushed ever westwards by the Romans and Germanic tribes, until they came to Britain and Ireland. As we discussed this history, I wondered had Celtic priests once worshipped their nature deities in sacred oak groves in the forests that we now walked through.

It is also the mark of a good friendship to share comfortable silences while walking and the forest had its own winter language to share with us of creaking boughs and countless swaying branches, like the sound of a distant sea, as a chilly breeze rose high in the treetops. During a short break, I removed my glove and placed my hand on the base of a mighty oak. Its surface was a mosaic of tough but flexible vertical ridges of outer bark, almost warm to the touch.

We continued up a steep, winding path, until we emerged on top of a rocky ridge summit. A light snow flurry whizzed by in the wind and as the shower veil cleared, it revealed a magnificent view. Far below, perched on a massive outcrop of crop, and overlooking the confluence of the mighty Danube and Moravia rivers was the ancient stronghold of Devin Castle. Since the 5^th century BC, it had been garrisoned first by Celts, then a Roman Legion and finally by the Slavs to defend their homeland border against their Germanic neighbours.

Our walk ended in the shadow of mighty Devin Castle, next to a poignant monument, which displayed the names of hundreds of Slovak people who had lost their lives trying to escape across the Danube and Moravia into Austria during the Soviet occupation.Slovakiais a yet undiscovered gem for adventure and leisure walking, in terms of tourism, but it is clear that the Slovak people appreciate and frequently enjoy the natural legacy, one powerful woman helped protect. The walking in wonder continues…

The reason I had travelled to Cong was that I recently got offered a 3 day gig by B&B Ireland to check out walking and other outdoor pursuits in County Mayo. Now I know what you’re probably thinking, a dream job possibility for Mr Keith, and yes, you would be 100% on the mark if it comes to pass!

After a late evening drive in heavy persistent rain and strong winds along partially flooded roads, I was greatly relieved to reach my cosy and homely accommodation at Hazel Grove B&B, located about 2km outside Cong. I pulled open the bedroom curtains the following morning and gazed out the window at an enchanting landscape of woodlands, emerald green hills and distant mountains, bathed by soft, golden sunshine. I had come to check out walking in the Cong area and was richly rewarded by the local hospitality, ancient heritage and stunningly scenic woodland trails and mountain treks.

Although Cong is in County Mayo, it has a surprisingly lush appearance, due to its extensive native woodlands and crystal clear waterways, flanked by overhanging ivy-clad trees. I began my morning stroll on the banks of Lough Corrib and gazed out at the multitude of wooded islands as I walked. It is said there is an island for every day of the year on Lough Corrib.

After a short time, I was back in the village and exploring the atmospheric Royal Abbey of Cong. The last High King of Ireland, Rory O’Connor, is buried beneath the ancient walls and the Cross of Cong is evidence that the abbey was an important centre for Celtic Art. I had the whole place to myself, which is part of the magic of touring sites in Ireland. A path led down to the river’s edge and I sat awhile in the ruins of a stone building known as The Monk’s Fishing House. The scene was truly enchanting and I could imagine myself as one of the monks contently fishing and then excitedly ringing the bell to let the cook know that supper was caught!

The path then led me across a bridge and through an ancient stone archway. This was the start of the Pigeon Hole Loop Walk; a delightful 4km circuit through native woodland. On the way I passed towering Monterrey and Silver Pines and moss clad limestone outcrops. I felt truly blessed to be rewarded with such a fine day and when a Robin suddenly burst into song on some distant tree branch, I realised the feeling was mutual! The entrance to Pigeon Hole Cave then came into view and a series of steep steps, with handrails, led me down into a subterranean wonderland.

When I arrived back to my B&B to collect my travel luggage, my hosts, Anne and Gerry Coakley, had prepared a plate of fresh sandwiches, pastries, and a hot mug of tea for me. We sat and talked together for almost an hour after lunch and Gerry showed my an old traditional spinning wheel, which he had skilfully hand crafted. Later I would find out that they rang B&B Ireland to say that they were seeking no compensation for my stay as I was their guest. The heart of hospitality still beats in many homes.

Gathering my trekking gear, I thanked my kind hosts, and headed for nearby Mount Gable. An easy access carpark at the foot of the mountain left me with a tough but rewarding 40 minute trek to the ridge. A bright, crescent moon was rising over the dusky Mayo Plains while a pale winter sun was beginning to set over the wild mountains of Connemara. Cong appeared like a narrow neck of land, stretched between the large inland lakes of Lough Mask and Lough Corrib, on either side. It was one of the most breathtaking views I have ever looked out upon and I made a silent wish for 2012.

This is my last blog for 2011 and I wish you all a happy, peaceful Christmas and a 2012 full of health, possibility and creative purpose.

http://blog.bandbireland.com/

Fáilte Ireland somehow rang me up out of the blue to show US Broadcaster, Rudy Maxa, and his partner and producer, Ana Scofield, around Donegal for two days. Naturally, I jumped at the chance. The three of us hit it off right away and it was clear to me that Rudy and Ana were genuine travelers, who both understood how much the journey is every bit as important as the destination.

We weaved our way over and around the Donegal Highlands in my ‘vintage’ Peugeot 305 as we listened to Clannad and Radio na Gaeltachta, (the local Irish language station) on my car radio. I talked about the landscape, the people, the culture and climate, which combine to make Donegal such a wild, unpredictable and special place. We drank fresh water from a mountain well and gazed up at a double rainbow near Glenveagh National Park, as the sun exploded in a fiery blaze of gold and yellows from behind a shower cloud.

The next day we set off for Slieve League, passing by the picturesque fishing port town of Killybegs along the way. From near the highest sea-cliffs in Western Europe, I pointed out parts of Fermanagh, Leitrim and the monolithic Ben Bulben mountain in Co Sligo and Nephin Mountain in distant Mayo. The shower clouds cleared and Donegal was showing off to my guests.

During our travels I got a call from a member of our local walking group, inviting me to perform at a house céilí. When I explained I was with guests, we were all summarily invited. Later that night, I collected Rudy and Ana from their hotel and brought them along a maze of darkened county roads, until we found the céilí house. A lively muster of singers, musicians, reciters and dancers had already gathered and warmly welcomed us inside.

A lavish buffet was spread out on two tables for a supper feast but first there was the matter of good fun and entertainment. Rudy and Ana soon found themselves swinging around the kitchen floor for a mixture of Barn Dances and Waltzes. A man and woman performed the clap dance and then got me wondering that perhaps life doesn’t begin until 60, as I watched them swing their legs with increasing speed over a long sweeping brush, which they used to perform an old Irish folk dance.

Before we left, a group of ladies sang a beautiful Irish blessing and I could see my two guests were moved to tears. Rudy was then given a customary dram of whiskey by Sean Travers, known in Donegal as deoch an dorais, or a drink for the road. A bright crescent moon accompanied my drive home that night and my heart was glad. I realised my part in Rudy and Ana’s ‘journey in wonder’ through Donegal. They got to experience an authentic tradition of house céilís in Ireland, where people gathered to entertain themselves as active participants and gained from the company and interaction. I made a wish that my generation won’t let this tradition pass into local history books as it is a deep connection with countless generations before us. The next day. Rudy did a live radio broadcast from Solis Lough Eske Castle Hotel to over 126 stations across the United States, and your truly did two interviews on storytelling. You can check out the interviews by going to www.rudymaxa.com and to the Podcast section of November 5th or see the links below.

Back to walking in wonder in County Mayo for my next blog.

Listen to the Rudy Maxa shows online:

November 5th, 2011

Hour 1: Broadcast from County Donegal in Northwest Ireland at the Lough Eske Castle Hotel & Spa.  http://rudymaxa.com/?powerpress_pinw=2510-podcast

Hour 2: Broadcast from County Donegal in Northwest Ireland at the Lough Eske Castle Hotel & Spa. http://rudymaxa.com.s108497.gridserver.com/podcasts/sat/rmaxa_sat_20111105b.mp3

More from Rudy Maxa

http://rudymaxa.com/category/podcasts/

It was Colllte, The Irish Semi-State Forestry Service, which created Murvagh Forest back in the mid 20th Century. They imported seedlings from North America; hardy evergreen tree varieties such as the Maritime and Lodgepole Pines, that would be able to withstand the Atlantic gales and scarcity of soil and water on what is in essence, a massive, ancient sand bar. These maturing pines have provided the shelter for other native tree species such as ash, blackthorn and holly to become established. Pine martins, badgers, herons, robins, rare butterflies and a host of other flora and fauna, have all made Murvagh Forest their home.

After a short talk, we followed the path ahead which meandered through the trees, creating a sense of mystery and natural wonder around every turn. Sunlight filtered freely through the tall pine canopy and like magic alchemy, turned a patch of autumn brown ferns to bright bronze in an instant.

We then emerged from the forest at a small carpark, which led us onto Murvagh Strand. The retreating tide had revealed a wide expanse of golden sandy beach. With theatrical hand gestures, I invited the faster walkers to take off at their own pace. The sky was blue and the soft light, gloriously pervading. I stood and watched as 20 walkers took off in smaller groups, their shadows following next to them along the strand.

I drew the symbol of a smiley sun in the sand with the edge of my walking boot while I waited for the slower walkers and buddies, bringing up the rear of the group. As they too passed, I overheard a participant talking out an old worry with her walking partner, who responded by simply giving her a tender pat on the shoulder.

A newcomer on the walk then introduced herself and we talked as we walked. Dolores was a carer working with severely handicapped children in their homes. She had come to Donegal for a holiday many years ago and stayed. This walk she said, “is the perfect tonic I was looking for.”

The understanding then struck me that I had brought people into a different place and space, free from the endless distractions, doings and concerns of our self created world, if only for a few precious hours. There was a great feeling of spaciousness and timelessness on Murvagh Strand on that gift of a sunny, calm November morning. I only wished that many more could have joined us. The walking in wonder continues…

I arrived out at Lough Eske just as the last light of day slowly faded from a grey and

Keith's alter ego Cornelius Moriarty preps for the ghost tour

blustery sky. I had sourced an early 19th Century costume, complete with tall black hat and lantern. There is something wonderfully liberating about dressing up in fancy dress around the weekend of Halloween and taking on another personality and role play. Maybe it is a release from our normal, everyday role in society, that we seem compelled to act out almost automatically from day to day and which must wear out our soul.

Anyhow, I was a short-tempered, disgruntled, grave-robber by the name of Cornelius Moriarty, and I felt myself slipping into the role with surprising relish, gusto and ease!

I shouted in my best irate cockney accent for the kids to fall into line or suffer the sharp edge of my walking staff! Darkness descended as we set off along unlit back roads that skirted the shore of Lough Eske. I set the scene for the evening by reminding everyone that the modern festival of Halloween originates from the Celtic festival of Samhain. It was a time of celebration for pastoral farming folk with the harvest collected and stored for the long winter months ahead and any surplus used for feasting . It was also a time for ghost stories told by seasoned Seanchaí or storytellers by the flickering light of a crackling hearth fire, as children and adults listened with a mixture of amusement, disbelief and horror. Our Celtic ancestors also believed that it was the time of year when the veil between this reality and others was almost translucent and could even lift temporarily. Who, but only the most hardened sceptics could not sometimes feel a sense of underlying mystery and sense of the unknown at this time of year; something, perhaps hardwired into our deepest psyche.

I was taking no chances with my hastily rehearsed set of ghost stories and pre-planned with a local man to hide along the route as we passed through part of an ancient woodland. The light beams of torches warily scanned the dark hedgerows as I stopped with theatrical suddenness and asked our walking party did they hear a rustling in the trees: “perhaps the ghost of a phantom outlaw known to roam these very forests.” We proceeded with cautious footsteps and some nervous giggles into the unknown. When the ambush was sprung, I got as big a fright as anyone did!

We paid off the rowdy phantom outlaw and continued on our way with post fright laughter and conversation filling the night air around us. There were more stories of Banshees, Lough Eske Castle hauntings, demon black cats and mischievous fairies before we arrived back to the inviting warm lights of Harvey’s Point and our walk’s end.

The walking in wonder continues…

One of the most amazing facts about our walks, apart from the laughter, camaraderie, great chats and huge variety of walks is that we have recorded less that 7 wet outings, which surely must be some sort of record for the North West of Ireland! After a series of cloudy, wet, windy days, which have come to characterise our late summer this year, blue skies and warm sunshine were the order of the day.

24 walkers set off on a bus from Donegal Town to a pre-determined starting point, 6km north of Donegal Town. Our destination was O’Neills Pub in Letterbarrow, (please note; the outside picnic bench and not the licensed premises!) Our bus dropped the slower walkers, including myself, 1 km ahead of the faster group, wittily nicknamed ‘the greyhounds’.

The quiet back roads weaved through the landscape, following the contours of the hills. A new scene to delight the eye awaited around each corner. A traditional country cottage nestled snugly beneath a hillock, a hedge of tall blackthorn bushes teemed with deep red haw berries, while the distant Bluestack Mountains exuded an other worldly beauty in the soft September morning sunlight. I walked and talked for a while alongside a woman who has been a regular walker for the last year or so. During a pause in our conversation she turned to me and said, “you know Keith, we really don’t appreciate ourselves half enough.” All I could do was acknowledge this unexpected insight with a respectful nod and smile.

The Walking in Wonder continues…